Tuesday, December 05, 2006

Honeymoon Part VI - The Long Anticipated Day

Friday finally came around and it was met with much anticipation, not because it was a Friday but because of what the day had in store for us. For the entire week, Richel had been telling me how we couldn't go kayaking because she didn't bring the proper shoes. Well, the thing is you don't need shoes for kayaking and I'm not sure why you would because everything gets wet. But oh well. Again, the day would start at some painfully early hour and we would begin in Lahaina, which meant we had to get up super early, again. Some vacation.

So we met our guide along the road to Lahaina. It was a small beachy area just off the busy road to Lahaina. There was no building or establishment, but just a small clearing amidst some sparse trees, next to the ocean. Our guide, Jerimiah, gave us some basics on how to get in and out of a kayak, how to paddle, and how to steer. These kayaks were open kayaks, almost like small canoes or rafts. Oh well, so much for doing the eskimo roll.

So we climbed in our rafts and off we went, paddling out towards the ocean. It was a beautiful day and the waters were calm.



That's actually a sea urchin Richel is holding...up to my face.



Richel and I were the only Asians on our tour during this excursion. Funny how we got the yellow raft. Coincidence?

In any case, we geared up and plunged in the water. Richel was much more comfortable snorkeling this time, as she wasn't flailing her arms and legs around in every direction; it was apparent she was much more calm. I was hoping to see something larger than the small schools of fish we encountered numerous times on our first excursion, and so my wish was granted. We must have seen 8-10 giant sea turtles. Of course not all at once, and they didn't swim together. We saw a handful at a time. This was so exciting because up until that day I hadn't seen one. And not only did we see them off in the distance, but the turtles swam up to the surface for air so close to us, and then would dive back down to the sea floor. I tried to take pictures of them but I guess most of the photos didn't come out because of the dim lighting under water (which makes me wonder somewhat about the validity of the Loch Ness Monster - maybe it is real, but it's not something that can be captured on film because of the cruddy water).




Believe it or not, these are actually pictures of sea turtles. They're there somewhere, but unfortunately the underwater camera couldn't pick them up. That's such a disappointment.

Now, getting out of the kayak was one thing; getting back in was another. Without sounding like a physics professor, getting back in a kayak is a lot lot harder because when you try to pull yourself back in the kayak, there's no counter-force for you to pull against because the kayak isn't anchored securely in one place - it's just floating in water. So if you try to pull yourself up in to the kayak, you'll likely capsize the boat. Or if you tried to pull yourself towards the kayak, instead what would happen is that you'd pull the kayak towards you and knock yourself in the head. Thankfully, Jerimiah taught us how to get back in the kayak, and the technique was to try and pull the kayak underneath your body as you lifted yourself out and laid across it with your body. That way the boat wouldn't capsize. And it was a good thing one of us was paying attention when he was explaining this because I had no trouble doing this. Richel, on the other hand, was struggling almost to the point where I thought it might be a good idea to film it. Nah. She nearly capsized the kayak while I was in it twice. Better not risk wetting the camcorder. I was wondering if we might have to continue our journey the rest of the way like this with me in the back paddling and Richel hanging alongside the kayak because she couldn't get back in. But she finally made it after a few tries.

We did this a few times, going in and out of the water after paddling to a new location and each time we saw numerous sea turtles. And of course I knew our luck would run out sooner or later, as someone actually spotted a shark. According to Jerimiah, it was a "harmless" shark, whatever that meant. In either case, this thing was swimming around and it looked to be 8 feet long. We actually swam to its general location and spotted it. I tried to stay behind it, and then I stopped moving altogether and just hovered. Then I actually tried to discretly swim away from it as it swam underneath a large rock. But as my luck would have it, the tide kept drawing me closer and closer and CLOSER until I was directly over the bloody thing and I thought, great. Just what I wanted - to be hovering directly over an 8 ft. shark. Thank God the thing swam away on its own, and after that Richel and I headed straight for the kayak. We got out, and agreed that we were done snorkeling for the rest of our lives. Which worked out well, because our kayak tour had come to and end and it was time to head back to shore to begin the second half of our adventure.

After paddling back to shore, we turned in our kayaking and snorkeling gear and met Dan, our hiking guide and driver. He was a nice guy and quite knowledgeable about what was going on on the island in terms of the ecology and sociologicaly. He told us so many interesting things I don't even know where to begin. He almost reminded me of Ewi, our driver for the trip to Haleakala, except Dan was cognizant of the fact that we had just completed 2.5 hours of kayaking and snorkeling and so kept quiet to let us rest at times.
We reached our destination just north of Wailuku high up in the mountains. Again, the roads were quite winding and dangerous, moreso than the road to Mt. Haleakala for these roads were only wide enough for one car. If we encountered another car coming down, we would have to wait until they passed or vice versa before proceding. When we reached the parking lot, the 7 of us climbed out of the van, packed up supplies of food, water, and bug spray in our packs and headed out.

After hiking for a few minutes I realized one very important thing: the shoe sales lady at the Keen store lied. Keen shoe/sandles are great for city walking or rock-climbing or what-have-you. But they're horrid for hiking because small pieces of dirt and rock get caught in there and they don't come out as easily as they do with regular sandals. So I hiked the entire trip with small rocks, dirt, and sand getting caught in my sandal-shoes. It became so uncomfortable to the point where I didn't care what the guide was talking about, anymore.

Our first stop was by a small waterfall that emptied in to a small pool, not stagnant like a pond although it was about the same size as one. It was here Richel and I decided to take some pictures.




The higher part of the waterfall actually emptied in to a small but deep pool. The guide encouraged us to get in the pool, but I was the only one daring or stupid enough to try it. In any case, let me tell you that that water is extremely cold, colder than the coldest faucet water in winter.



SHRINKAGE!



Definitely shrinkage.

I was so caught up in the excitement of wading in to a waterfall that I had forgotten to take off my wrist watch. More importantly, I had forgotten to take the car keys and alarm remote out of my pocket before getting in to the water. But just in case anyone is interested, those remote car alarm devices actually do work after being submerged in ice cold mountain water. Trust me, I'm speaking from experience.

Anyway, Dan proceded to tell us as we resumed our journey that the natives of Hawaii would call going in to the icy cold waterfall water a cleansing experience. And as strange as it may sound there was actually some truth to that, for not only did I really feel cleansed and envigorated with the pure mountain water, but my sandals were cleaned out when I waded in! Ahhhh!

And so onward we hiked, encountering different terrains, plant species, tree species, and trails. Although, most of the trails were once again, dirty, sandy, and/or muddy. Our final destination required us to climb down the side of a small cliff and in to a clearing with a pool and waterfall.



Proof that we were here by the waterfalls.

Since my first experience with the waterfalls, everytime I saw a pool or water or waterfall it's almost like I had some insane obligation to jump in the water and get wet. Maybe the 80 degree weather had something to do with it.



Richel and I making our way to the waterfall.



Yes, we're actually not smiling but grimacing from the ice cold water beating down on us. I can't imagine how those people stand directly underneath the waterfalls to pose for pictures. They must be freezing.

This waterfall and pool area was beautiful and I wish we could have stayed longer. But our guide allowed us to rest for about 10 minutes and before I knew it we were up and hiking our way back to the van, again. We took a slightly different route and our pace had quickened. I wasn't sure what the emergency was, though. Maybe Dan had to go to the bathroom.




Despite our haste, there's always time to stop for a picture. And if you don't have the time, you make time. Actually, I was just dragging my feet to torture Dan. j/k

After hiking the rest of the way (uphill) we finally made it to the van, but not unscathed. Despite having bug spray on, I sufferred 7 mosquito bites. I think the spray didn't do anything for the bugs, and if anything the only thing that kept me from getting eaten alive was the long-sleeve wet shirt I wore. But I'm sure all those toxic chemicals killed off countless wildlife as it washed off my legs in the waterfall. Dan proceded to drive us back to the kayak site where we had all left our cars.

So now it was about 2:30 in the afternoon and we were between Makena and Lahaina, closer to Lahaina. And we've been told mutliple times how bad traffic was to Lahaina in the afternoon coming from Makena, so we decided to head up to Lahaina, again and hang out until sunset.

FLASHBACK - For the past week I had been looking for a culturally rich Hawaiian show to watch. I wanted to learn something about Hawaii and Hawaiian culture; Ulalena was okay, but somewhat weird and the Luau we went to on Oahu wasn't that satisfying in terms of learning something new or interesting about the Hawaiian culture. On our trip to Haleakala, we rode with this one couple who had gone to a Luau and spoke very highly of its cultural richness. It wasn't commercialized as badly as many of the other Luaus. In any case, it was called the Old Lahaina Luau and it was voted best Luau by Maui residents. I had seen that all over the magazines and travel brochures but never paid any attention to it and when we had originally planned out our trip early that week the travel lady, Jennifer had offerred to get us set up to see it, but I turned it down initially. Later, I changed my mind and found that it was hard to get tickets. Disappointment crept upon me as the week went on and it seemed as though we would never get tickets to the Old Lahaina Luau. The one chance we did have was when they called me back to tell me of extra tickets they had but that's the day we went on a helicopter ride. But by some stroke of luck, the day Richel and I went to the Ocean Center I called the luau place up and they put me on a wait list and we got accepted! So we would be able to attend the luau before leaving Maui after all. And it would be on Friday night, after our hiking/kayaking excursion.

BACK TO PRESENT -
Driving towards Lahaina, we had to stop off at a gas station to change out of our snorkel/hiking gear and in to normal clothes. For me, that meant putting on another dry-fit shirt (but hey, this one was clean!). We ate a sandwich at the gas station, and I'm still not sure what posessed Richel to buy a sandwich from a gas station. Delerious from hunger and hypoglycemia, perhaps. Anyway, it was one of the worst sandwiches I had ever tasted. But that was okay, because we were going to the luau.

We arrived at the place, which was easily hidden away and anyone not driving 3 miles/hr would have missed the sign to turn in. Upon entering the place, Richel and I were leied, and then got in line to enter. While we waited, a couple serenaded us while waiters dressed in traditional grass skirt garb and head wreaths served us drinks. VERY NICE!

Now, looking at this place from across the street, one would never think much of this luau. But after coming through the entrance, the area opened up in to a wide area of the beach with palm trees with a center stage surrounded by a semi-circle arrangement of chairs and tables that faced towards the ocean so that the ocean lapped upon the shore behind the stage. Between the stage and the ocean was a line of vendors selling their wares of hand-carved rocks, photos, pins, etc.






Anyway, the show was fantastic: it was very well presented with culturally relevant dances and historical background that was given before each dance. Needless to say, the dancers were fantastic, both men and women. I was more amazed at how the women could swivel their hips like that without having severe back pain. But they did it and did it with skilled artistry.

One thing that did detract from our enjoyment of the evening was the company we kept at our table during the luau. There were two couples, each in about their 50's. Both wives seemed to be friendly or at least convesational, but the husbands were rather quiet towards Richel and me, almost as if we weren't good enough for them to talk to. Apparently, the two men struck up an interesting conversation with each other. But eventually the question came around,

"So what do you do for work?" and I answered them truthfully. Suddenly, it was as if we had gained a new level of respect from them. The husbands still didn't speak to us, but I could tell from the look in their eyes that we were looked down upon with a condescending eye, anymore. And so I responded in kind,

"So what do YOU do for work?" Both women were housewives, I believe, and one of the husbands did some sort of engineering thing. The other husband didn't even bother answering. Nothing to brag about, I would guess.

Anyway, as the show went on, our surly dinner partners disappeared and Richel and I were brought closer to the stage to watch. After the luau was over and we had eaten our fill we left for home, once again driving the winding dark road back to Makena. So although we never did get a chance to go zip-lining, we had the opportunity to watch an awesome luau. And we had a good time.

Actually, we had a GREAT time!

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